Bike won't idle for shit, stutters badly down low

[Mr Brown]

Stage 1 kit, 6 lb spring, bone stock motor except cleaned up heads and XX injectors. 16g turbo, external gate, dump pipe. No spacer, cams, nothing. 116 octane fuel.
Will not idle less than 3k, will not hold steady idle at all. Pops and stutters during burnout. Launched the bike, it stumbles thru first up to about 8k, then pulls strong to redline. When I shift it falls on its fucking face again. Is this just a mapping issue or have I screwed up my install along the way?

[buzard]

aip sensor hooked up for low rpm fueling? two sensors on left side of the bike. the one that came off the bottom of the intake should be hooked up to see vac and not boost. easy to mix the air intake pressure sensor with the atmospheric pressure sensor.

[Mr Brown]

I have the one that was originally on the back of the airbox teed into the lines off the throttlebodies, with a check valve in line.

[buzard]

that adjusts low rpm fueling. f/p set? 42psi? check for vac leaks? make sure check valve is in correctly. blow off boost to the line and keep vac.

[buzard]

throw up a pic of vac line setup.

[buzard]

wait xx injectors your f/p will be set lower then 42psi. bigger injectors.

[sportbikeryder]

when you say check valve inline, you mean tee'd off to atmosphere so the sensor does not see boost, not check valve inline right? If it is inline, it will do as you mention. The check valve will cause the sensor to read vaccum all of the time.

[Chris Horoho]

when you say check valve inline, you mean tee'd off to atmosphere so the sensor does not see boost, not check valve inline right? If it is inline, it will do as you mention. The check valve will cause the sensor to read vaccum all of the time.

its a bigger black check valve similar to what denis used to send with his ghetto kits
its got a built in T in the top of it
its correct on routing
he needs to just remove fueling in the bottom half of the map is what seems to be the issue
yes he is running XX injectors not stock
the XX are 320-330cc if i remember right??

[buzard]

pull  the check valve and go for a ride without boosting it. set f/p at 39 psi go down to 37 if it still runs funny. i had mine at 37-39 (gauge flutter) with the xx if i remember correctly. didn/t catch the inline wording. be sure it is working correctly or it will run like ass. thats how i got the screen name buzard. my hayabusa (falcon) was running more like a buzard because of a bad sensor. 

[Chris Horoho]

pull  the check valve and go for a ride without boosting it. set f/p at 39 psi go down to 37 if it still runs funny. i had mine at 37-39 (gauge flutter) with the xx if i remember correctly. didn/t catch the inline wording. be sure it is working correctly or it will run like ass. thats how i got the screen name buzard. my hayabusa (falcon) was running more like a buzard because of a bad sensor. 

the check valve is fine
trust me its the style i prefer to use
its designed exactly how u want it to be
i think his problem is mapping issue
he has dropped the numbers in the lower part (minus 100%) and it started idling better

[kawaking]

if I remember corectly when I had blackbird injectors with stock fuel pressure  ! the power commander numbers were like -20 and it ran fine !

[buzard]

the check valve is fine
trust me its the style i prefer to use
its designed exactly how u want it to be
i think his problem is mapping issue
he has dropped the numbers in the lower part (minus 100%) and it started idling better

seriously pinky you prefer based on what. you don't tune nor have you had a bike that ran more then a week or had xx injectors. did you have hands on the check valve. i would assume you have it right in your all knowing hands the way you post. if you are that good fix it for him.

do you have pics? they do help.
can you get a/f reading? puffing heavy black soot?
plugs are all new? (fouled, at this point it does not matter, but gapped at 18 thou.)
did you start it on race fuel or regular fuel? (easy to foul a plug running the race fuel)
did you blow thru the check valve. they do go bad and just a little oil in them can make them stick.
******did you change the cams in the motor recently? not hard to have it jump a tooth. that will make the motor run like ass.

[Chris Horoho]

seriously pinky you prefer based on what. you don't tune nor have you had a bike that ran more then a week or had xx injectors. did you have hands on the check valve. i would assume you have it right in your all knowing hands the way you post. if you are that good fix it for him.

do you have pics? they do help.
can you get a/f reading? puffing heavy black soot?
plugs are all new? (fouled, at this point it does not matter, but gapped at 18 thou.)
did you start it on race fuel or regular fuel? (easy to foul a plug running the race fuel)
did you blow thru the check valve. they do go bad and just a little oil in them can make them stick.
******did you change the cams in the motor recently? not hard to have it jump a tooth. that will make the motor run like ass.

prefer based on running 50 million tees

trust me its a good style check valve


by the way if he wasnt 4 hrs away i would be down there fixing it personally


by the way this is the check valve

[buzard]

prefer based on running 50 million tees

trust me its a good style check valve


by the way if he wasnt 4 hrs away i would be down there fixing it personally


by the way this is the check valve

no wonder your bike broke. shit where did you put the 50 million check valves. i have done 3 on the black bike, but 50 million is overboard. didn't say it was a bad style, just that it may be in wrong or went bad/sticky.

[Chris Horoho]

no wonder your bike broke. shit where did you put the 50 million check valves. i have done 3 on the black bike, but 50 million is overboard. didn't say it was a bad style, just that it may be in wrong or went bad/sticky.

i was being sarcastic lol

there is only one way it can fit in with the factory sized vac lines
I truely feel its a tune issue
the map i sent him was for a stock injector bike and was to get him up and running to get to a dyno
i think he needs to drop the bottom end of the map (out of boost map) to get him running to get to a tuner
you know as well as i do those injectors flow quite a bit more fuel then the stock ones

[Chris Horoho]

and its a brand new check valve how does it go bad that quick (yes i know sometimes things are bad from the factory, but not that frequently)

[buzard]

just asking questions. coud be alot of things. hillbilly tune even 

[Chris Horoho]

just asking questions. coud be alot of things. hillbilly tune even 

yep lol

[Mr Brown]

Went to the track last night, dropped 20% out of the map, even at 100%. It will idle steady now, and ran much better, but still breaking up. Broke up at WOT, could be a fuel line kink. FP flutters around 37-39 @ idle. Don't think it's making boost, feels like a stock bike, and only heard the dump valve blow once. Numbers were absolute shit, didn't get a clean pass out of the 5 I attempted. Map is as close as I'm gonna get, I'm gonna try and figure out the boost issue and re-route the fuel lines.

[buzard]

put it on a dyno.
you will be able to watch boost and ensure a/f is correct.
could you post pics as it sits now. everywhere there is a hose clamp or tie strap.