Info for people thinking which power adder they want

[WerxRacing]

Those who are more familiar with nitrous oxide would have heard the terms dry kit and wet kit. What is the difference between nitrous oxide dry injection and nitrous oxide wet injection kits?

Nitrous Oxide Dry Injection Kits

Nitrous oxide dry injection kits spray nitrous oxide into the intake manifold and it is mixed with fuel and air at the injectors. Dry shots of nitrous oxide usually provide less of a power increase because there is no way of providing additional fuel to balance the extra oxygen in the combustion mixture. So you have to be a little conservative as too lean of an air-fuel mixture will cause the engine to just blow up. At least with stock factory injectors anyway.

Nitrous Oxide Wet Injection Kits

The other type of nitrous oxide injection is wet nitrous oxide injection. Wet nitrous oxide shots have fuel in them. This explains the usage of the word wet. The nitrous oxide is mixed together with fuel and a fogger injects this mixture directly into the throttle body. This provides the extra fuel to balance out the extra oxygen provided by the nitrous oxide, thus keeping the air-fuel mixture stoichiometric or not too lean. However wet nitrous injection kits might cause puddles of fuel to be stuck in the intake manifold, and cause severe backfire conditions.

There is also a hardcore form of wet nitrous shots called direct-port injection. In this system, each cylinder gets its own nitrous injector. For this modification, the whole intake manifold has to be removed and fitted with a custom one.

Is Nitrous Oxide Safe?

With the increased power being created, how does one control the process so that no engine blown cases will happen? Using wet nitrous shot kits is one way, as it mixes the additional fuel necessary to keep the air-fuel mixture balanced. Ignition controllers are also sometimes installed to retard the spark timing when nitrous oxide is being used, to prevent premature detonation, also known as knocking or pinging. Higher octane fuel should also be used.

Balancing the air-fuel mixture with the extra oxygen provided by nitrous oxide is also a tricky thing. Too lean and you’ll get detonation problems which will damage the engine. Too rich and you’ll lose power. But it’s all fun, tuning your car to the maximum performance. Good learning process.

[WerxRacing]

There are three types of setups for nitrous oxide.
1) Dry nitrous
2) Wet nitrous
3) Direct port

1) Dry nitrous: dry nitrous is where nitrous oxide and nitrous alone is spayed into the intake and the extra fuel needed is boosted through your stock or upgraded injectors. This set up is not safe for more then a 100 shot due to tunning and fuel isues, but is saffer for smaller shoots because you have better controll of the fuel. it is recomended by nitrous companys such as zex to place the nozzel at leaset 13" away from the throttle body, however this not realy the best place to put it. it is better to put the nozzel as far away from the TB as possable so that you get better ditribution through the intake so that an evan amount of nitrous is sprayed into each port in the intake manifold. placing the nozzel farther away is also better because nitrous is VEARY cold so it cools down the air going into the intake, and for every 11 degrees colder you gain 1HP. For custom setups like i have, you need to get a fuel controller and not just a FPR like most people say, it's saffer to get a fuel controller and a FPR wont boost the fuel anough if you want to go over 35 shoot. if you get a zex kit, it comes with a controller box that does all the work for you. when using dry nitrous, you only need one solinoid since you are only injecting nitrous and not fuel.

2)Wet nitrous: wet nitrous is called "wet" because it is sprayed in to your intake or through a TB plate with fuel and nitrous, so the nitrous never realy becomes a gas. with wet nitrous you have 2 jets on one nozzel (or how ever many nozzels you decide to install), one fuel jet, and one nitrous jet. this setup is saffer for higher shoots of nitrous over a 100 shoot due to that fact that you have more controll over the jets for better fuel controll. it still wouldnt hurt to get a fuel controller anyways and i recommend getting one but isnt required. with wet nitrous there is fuel added through the nozzel or what most people like to call it, a "fogger" instead of through the injectors. wet nitrous nozzels should also be place as far away from the TB but not as far as a dry nozzel should because it doesnt need as mutch room to distribute because of the fuel being added and because you shouldnt run fuel lines that far. when using wet nitrous you need two differant solinoids, one fuel soinoid and one nitrous solinoid.

3) Direct Port: Direct port nitrous injection works in the same way as wet nitrous but instead of a TB plate or having just one nozzel, you have 4 (or more if you have a v8 or v6 but this is a honda forum), one for each port on the intake manifold. this is also saffer then dry kits for the same resones why wet kits are better for bigger shoots. when doing a direct port nitrous setup, you need to get a distribution block. a distribution block is a small block of metal that evanly ditributes nitrous from one line into four (again, for hondas). it is veary important to eavenly distribute the nitrous to each port, other wise one port gets more nitrous then the other and you can geuss what happens. you also need to make shure that the lines from the distribution block to each port are all the same langth for the same reson. when using direct port, you also need to use two soinoids for the same reson you do with wet nitrous.

ok, and now for some general information:
nitrous is a gas, but when it is compressed enough it is takes the forum of liquid (this is where that boring ass chemistry class comes in. lol). because of this, it is better to mount the bottel so that the nozzel on the bottel is slightly higher then the bottom of the bottel and so that the nozzel is facing towards the front of your car, bacause when you kit the gas, this liquid nitrous is forced toward the bottom of the bottel where the pick up tube in the bottel sucks it in.
when running nitrous line, make shure you dont run them inside the car or near any fuel lines. since automotive nitrous doesnt have any smell you would never know if you have a leak. and if the line gets hot near you exaust or somthing then the line can break and empty your bottel realy quick and you just lost $50 worth of nitrous.
nitrous solinoids should not be mounted more the 3ft away from the nozzel or nozzels due to pressure problems.
If you are going to use more then a 50 shoot then you need to get colder spark plug and retard your timming a few degrees, once you get higher then a 100 shoot. you need to retard your timming evan more to prevent detonation.
you should not spray more then a 75 shoot on any d16.
you should not spray more then a 100 shoot on a stock any b16 or b18

now for some good and bad things about nitrous parts and nitrous in general:

one is the WOT (Wide Open Throttel) switch. it is good because nitrous is only sprayed when the peddel is puched all the way to the floor. but it is bad because if you spray to early on 1st gear, you can loose tractionand because if you miss shift then and do it more then once, you can blow your engine. witch is why i use a hand switch that i strap to my shift knob so i controll when the nitrous is sprayed.

nitrous is good because it is the best bang for your buck and is only a temporary change, it can be removed at any time. it is can be bad because if you spray to mutch you can fry your engine. and if something breaks wile your spraying, then you can also blow your engine.

[WerxRacing]

There are three types of nitrous systems: "Dry", "Wet", and "Direct Port Fogger". A nitrous system is primarily concerned with introducing fuel and nitrous into the engine's cylinders, and combining them for most efficient combustion.

"Dry" nitrous system
In a "Dry" nitrous system, extra fuel required is introduced through the fuel injectors, keeping the upper intake dry of fuel. This property is what gives the "Dry" system its name. Fuel flow can be increased either by increasing the pressure in the fuel injection system, or by modifying the vehicles' computer to increase the time the fuel injectors remain open during the engine cycle. Once additional fuel has been introduced, it can burn with the extra oxygen provided by the Nitrous, providing additional power.

"Wet" nitrous system
A "Wet" nitrous system introduced the fuel and nitrous together, causing the upper intake to become wet with fuel. However, the intake must be designed for wet flow (for example, carburetors also require wet flow intake), as distribution problems or intake backfires may result. Dry-flow intakes are designed to contain only air, which will travel through smaller pipes and tighter turns with less pressure, whereas Wet-flow intakes are designed to contain a mixture of fuel and air. "Wet" nitrous systems tend to produce more power than "Dry" systems, but are correspondingly more expensive and difficult to install.

"Fogger" nitrous system
A "Fogger" nitrous system introduces nitrous and fuel directly into each intake port on the engine. Normally, these systems combine nitrous and fuel through a fogger nozzle, which mixes and meters the nitrous and fuel delivered to each cylinder individually, allowing each cylinder's nitrous/fuel ratio to be adjusted without affecting the other cylinders.

A Fogger system is the most powerful and efficient type of nitrous system, due to the placement of the fogger nozzle in each runner, as well as the ability to use more and higher capacity solenoid valves. A Compucar Fogger kit can go as high as 1,100 horsepower with only one stage! Fogger systems are also one of the most complex and expensive type of system, requiring significant modification to the engine, adding a distribution block and solenoid assembly, as well as drilling, tapping, and building plumbing for each cylinder intake. These systems are most often used on racing vehicles specially built to take the strain of such high horsepower levels. Vehicles running one fogger nozzle per cylinder is said to be running "one fogger". These are very common on one-stage systems. Vehicles running two fogger nozzles per cylinder run "two foggers". These are used on single and dual stage kits. Vehicles running three or four foggers run on either two or three stages of nitrous.

[02gsxr600]

great post

[WerxRacing]

Pinky has just schooled me more. I've been doing race cars for years but it has been 4 years now that my cars have been changed. Sense Sep of '06 I've had this bike & for got of all my stangs in the drive. I now have more info on 2 & 3 stage type systems & programmers. WoW. This stuff is moving forward & kicking A$$$..

[02gsxr600]

I tought  pinky liked turbos

[WerxRacing]

the system pinky & gsxturbo are working on will work on n.a., nos or boost bikes. 

[nomrlz]

good info