Gsxturbo can u help me?

[1Fast7]

 I hope you don't mind me asking for help, I had came across this site while looking for some info on the microsquirt ignition set up. I seen the help you given Tobisen and thought you could help me on the subject. I have a '92 zx7 that i'm trying to fuel inject but i'm snagged on the ignition part. The problem is that the ignition wheel doesn't have enough teeth so i have to modify it by adding more. So what i would like to know is would it be alright to have teeth all the way around or do i need to have a space for a skipped tooth? Second do i need to have TDC line up at the top of a tooth or in the valley? On the factory piece TDC is before the tooth. I've posted a picture of the wheel and a cut out of what the wheel will look like after i modify it. It is the exact size so let me know what you think.



 And on a side note i like your screen name, on the DSM forums mine was GSXTurboing thats when i had my 91 Eclipse.

[Gsxturbo]

Well first of all do you have two VR sensors or one on the crank pickup ?

If you have two then i cant see why the wheel you have wont work with dual trigger but if you only have one sensor then yes it might be advisable to make a new wheel say 24-1 tooth and hook it up as wasted spark ( you have to any way since the uS only has two ignition outputs) and its pretty easy from there.

I dont think it really matters where the missing tooth is as long as it has enough advance for all the timing calculation the busa is around 100-110 degrees BTDC when the missing tooth passes the sensor on them witch is plenty of advance.

[1Fast7]

 No it only has 1 VR sensor and i don't think there is enough room to put another one. I'm not sure though as i have not take the cover of but by the manual it looks tight.

 Dose it have to be such a high count tooth wheel? What i did was i bought a used wheel so i could make a new one(it's a two piece design). I measured the tooth width and came up with a spacing to give me the even number of 16. I'm not sure how sensitive the sensor is so i though i keep the tooth the same width.

 As for the missing tooth do i just grind one off or do i have to refigure the spacing and adjust them. I'm kind of lost with the tooth count the one on the other post (from a gsxr600) you said it was a 24-1 but it only has 23 teeth(?).

 Sorry for so many questions this ignition thing has got me stumped. I thought it would be easier to fuel inject it before i turbocharged it now i'm not sure if it was the right decision as the bike has been sitting for months now. I wish it was as easy as the fuel set up.

[Chris Horoho]

 As for the missing tooth do i just grind one off or do i have to refigure the spacing and adjust them. I'm kind of lost with the tooth count the one on the other post (from a gsxr600) you said it was a 24-1 but it only has 23 teeth(?).

 Sorry for so many questions this ignition thing has got me stumped. I thought it would be easier to fuel inject it before i turbocharged it now i'm not sure if it was the right decision as the bike has been sitting for months now. I wish it was as easy as the fuel set up.

the 24-1 means 24 teeth (then remove one) = 23
the missing tooth would be the 24th tooth on a wheel

do you think it would be possible to just do the fueling side and leave the ignition side stock (its just wasted spark)

[OzBooster]

I was just about to suggest that, leave the std cdi to trigger the fuel only ecu , for low boost that works fine, could slot the crank pickup mounts and retard the pickup a cuople of degrees if you want a bit more safety.

[1Fast7]

 I have already hack the harness to wire in the ecu. I hack up the zx7 harness for the timing part and a zx6 harness for the fuel part. Everything is all wired up it's just getting it running.

[Gsxturbo]

Well its definatly going to be harder to setup doing fuel and ignition both but it can be done.

Ok for the trigger wheel if i was going to make one from scratch i would go with a 24-1 witch is really a 23 tooth wheel with 1 missing tooth now the important part is the missing tooth needs to pass the sensor before tdc on one of the cylinders ( it reall dosent matter withc one) on the bus it passes 100- 110 deg before tdc on cylinder 4  so this gives you a trigger offset of 110 deg in witch the uS can calculate the timing it needs to fire the plugs .

So if you do make a wheel stay with something with a good number of teeth so the uS will have some good resulution on the tooth count the important thing is to have your missing tooth be far enough advanced to work properly .

Now im not real familure with the uS so this is info i have learned from the standard MS witch is what i use but the overall setups are basicaly the same.


Yes for the missing tooth you would just grind one tooth off it dosent have to be exact on the trigger angle since you change the actual offset in MT so just get it close and then you can go from there.

[OzBooster]

I was sent a link to these guys a while ago for triggerwheels http://www.electromotive-inc.com:80/products/mag_sensors.html
I think there all 60-2 which is 60 tooth with 2 teeth uncut as the home reference .
Can the MS or uS work with these ??

[1Fast7]

 I don't know how many teeth i need but i do know that 60 teeth on a motor cycle is to many. The problem is when spinning at 14000rpm there is not enough of a brake/space between the teeth for the sensor to read it it will always read a tooth.

 I will rework my mock-up piece this weekend and post it for your thoughts. To bad i can't find someone near me to help set this up as i'm not very computer savvy.

[Chris Horoho]

where are you located?

[Chris Horoho]

if i remember right (i havent messed with the programs for a while but i do think the MS and uS will do a 60-2 wheel

if i had a wheel i could make you a new one but id have to see the wheel and get measurements and such after my cnc machines got up and running

[1Fast7]

 I live in Sandusky OH.

[Chris Horoho]

you have a pm

[Matt Cramer]

The MS-II based versions can run up to 18,000 RPM with a 60-2 wheel, at least in bench tests. A 12-1 wheel might be easier to deal with though, especially if you're fabricating it.