Stock suspension

[jasonsbusa]

Anyone have any advice on setting up stock suspension for drag racing? I dont know much about setting it so anything you can add is fine.

[WerxRacing]

i been to a few sites trying to  find answers. the best igo was put it to stock the go from there. depending of your highth, weight & what yor doing depends on the set up. set it up for drag track or cornring or day to day driving. a lot to think on. but getting ideas from guys will point u the right way. what i would do is not the same as u or ponky to get the same ride. u know what we all look like ;-)  .

[jasonsbusa]

How do you set it up for ugly  JK.Im just looking to drag race. Im 6'2" @ 235 lbs

[Chris Horoho]

first thing is to tighten your preload (maybe a straight link will help with tightening this up)
then adjust your compression a little snug (as you are stretched) and adjust from there (you dont want it to bottom out but you do want it to squat to transfer the traction and force to the rear wheel)
you then want the rebound fairly snug as you want it to stay squated as this keeps the force on the rear and keep traction
it takes time to get it just how you want but when set it will just feel right

[Coryonbusa]

Have you measured your sag?

[jasonsbusa]

I dont know much about suspension so can you elaberate

[DropBusa]

Pinky pretty much hit it on the head.
2 big things for drag. Low center of gravity, and the ability to transfer to the rear tire. Gotta watch the rebound too, you dont want it to spring back too much as this wont properly keep traction, thats when you risk slippage due to too much rebound. Keep in mind that you have one thing over the light weights in the rear shock is that your body weight can assist in a the bike squatting.
BUT DONT bottom it out!

[Coryonbusa]

OK. The way I do it is...
Remove the tail section and sit on your bike. Have someone measure (in millimeters) from the center of the axle bolt straight up to the last bolt hole on the subframe.
 Then, lift your back tire up off of the ground (unloading the suspension) and measure the same distance.
 Subtract the smaller from the larger and that's your "sag."

[Coryonbusa]

My sag is set to 30mm.

[DropBusa]

Sag is a measurement of travel (laden sag) or travel with rider on bike(static)that remains in the shock, due to spring.
Sag dosent have to much of an input in drag bikes. Its the corner carving bikes that you really have to focus on sag.
Remember LOW!

[DropBusa]

As for adjusting your rear shock the easiest way to do it is send a rod through the bike. (swing arm bolt) and support it with 2 floor jacks.

That way you can unload your shock.

[Coryonbusa]

When I extended my arm out +8, the rear suspension was bottoming out. When I adjusted my sag to 30mm, all of a sudden, I could launch again.

[jasonsbusa]

Mine is set from stock setting all Ive messed with is the compression and rebound.

[Coryonbusa]

Mine is set from stock setting all Ive messed with is the compression and rebound.

Stock busa's are set up for 180 lb japenesse guys!

[DropBusa]

Thought it was 140lbs jap guys??   

[jasonsbusa]

Im way off then. Now wheres my damn tool to turn the adjuster

[fatnslow]

the stock shock cant handle much, i had to add a second shock to handle my weight.










































 

[Coryonbusa]

Thought it was 140lbs jap guys??    

 

Prolly! Put my 250 lb ass on a stock busa and watch it go down about 2 inches!

Im way off then. Now wheres my damn tool to turn the adjuster

Screw driver and a hammer.  

[DropBusa]

Round about.

[jasonsbusa]

So you recommend 30mm sag then work on the compression and rebound. Im sure mine travels alot then since Im 235lbs

[Coryonbusa]

So you recommend 30mm sag then work on the compression and rebound. Im sure mine travels alot then since Im 235lbs

Yep. You'll have to play with it to get what works best for you.

[DropBusa]

For the rear shock, yea that'll work.
Keep in mind that the front forks on Busas are HORRIBLE.
If you weight over 180lbs the stock springs are pretty much no good and your asking for blown seals.
Lucky for you your a dragger, not a canyon carver. Straps can be used but i wouldnt recommend them for long periods of time.
With the torque of your bike the front end prolly looks like a rocking horse. You'll eventually need heavier springs and new seals. Might as wel revalve it too while your at it.
I wouldnt recommend cutting them either as it still dosent resolve the heavy weight issue.

[jasonsbusa]

My bike  has already went through one set of seals.It does sag in the front.I was gonna go with stiffer springs and cut forks

[Coryonbusa]

My bike  has already went through one set of seals.It does sag in the front.I was gonna go with stiffer springs and cut forks

 

[DropBusa]

that'll be the best route for the front end.
You'd be surpirsed at what the rear shock can do. But keep in mind that with all them ponies under the tank and all that torque if you have the money you might want to look into something that will transfer ALL of it properly.
The stocker wasnt exactly designed for SO MUCH.

[jasonsbusa]

You have a shock to donate to the poor man fund

[DropBusa]

If you weight around the 240lb mark. either 1.1 or 1.2 kg springs would work for you.
i got the 1.1kg and told myself i should've gone heavier for the expected wheelie come down. (stock WB)
But im planning on stretchin her a little.

[DropBusa]

You have a shock to donate to the poor man fund

If i did it would be yours man.

[jasonsbusa]

Ill have Pinky do my forks for me

[DropBusa]

Ill have Pinky do my forks for me

There ya go.

[Chris Horoho]

For the rear shock, yea that'll work.
Keep in mind that the front forks on Busas are HORRIBLE.
If you weight over 180lbs the stock springs are pretty much no good and your asking for blown seals.
Lucky for you your a dragger, not a canyon carver. Straps can be used but i wouldnt recommend them for long periods of time.
With the torque of your bike the front end prolly looks like a rocking horse. You'll eventually need heavier springs and new seals. Might as wel revalve it too while your at it.
I wouldnt recommend cutting them either as it still dosent resolve the heavy weight issue.

actually i add spring pressure to the stock spring (when i cut them when asked to stiffen too for weight) and this aids in the heavy hitter problem (trust me its a real pain to compress when putting back together)and yes i think cutting them is better then a strap any day of the week
ive almost went into a bad tank slapper due to the strap (in a drag race as the front shock couldnt do its job right)

[DropBusa]

actually i add spring pressure to the stock spring (when i cut them when asked to stiffen too for weight) and this aids in the heavy hitter problem (trust me its a real pain to compress when putting back together)and yes i think cutting them is better then a strap any day of the week
ive almost went into a bad tank slapper due to the strap (in a drag race as the front shock couldnt do its job right)

Rodger Rodger, copy all.

There ya have it Jason. I think race tech sells they're 1.2kg for about $100. Save it and get the PInky hookup.

[Chris Horoho]

Rodger Rodger, copy all.

There ya have it Jason. I think race tech sells they're 1.2kg for about $100. Save it and get the PInky hookup.

there is no replacement for good springs set to weight my way is just to save some money
if wanting it completely setup then the springs would be a good choice

[1badassbusa1962]

hey jason i have been studying on this question since early winter with several debates                               and one thing i have found is the spring weight is a issue i talked with lenny (from racetech) at the dealer show and called him afterwards and ordered a spring you will need to know how much longer your swingarm is than stock from pivot to axle                        and i have found a missconception about springs some say that if you compress the spring it makes it tighter if you have a 500# spring it is still a 500# spring doesnt matter how far you compress it but compressing it does change the preload                                             in other words the amount of #s it takes to start it compressing          having the forks cut does help over a strap as it basically sets the spring at a compressed height that would be equall to the amount of force it would have taken it to get there to begin with wich equates to less travel which is what a strap does also         i am 9 inches longer than stock and my weight is about 210 ready to go down the track i had to go from a stock spring wich will work for a stock wheelbase bike with a 170# rider on it to a 1000# spring                                                       i havent been able to get the bike down the track except 3 times and it felt like it left alot harder although it didnt show it in the 60 foot times yet                                       there is also a post on this on the org with a brock shock                                    i think the only thing that the high dollar shocks do is give you alot more adjustment to set to your needs they talk alot about dynoing shocks but that works for road racers but we make 1- 7 to 10 second pass at a time we dont heat up a shock like they do so i dont see where that benifits us just my education so far